Latest Posts

CHINA 2025

So many new cities to explore, countries to revisit, but when Jesse and I decided to make a long-ish trip this May, China crept into our heads and made it high up on the list. I’ve been to China twice, both times to Beijing, back in 2006 and 2012. Despite living in Asia for the last 15 years, Jesse hasn’t explored much of East Asia. We visited Taiwan together in 2023, loved it, and China suddenly sounded like a great possibility.

Jesse needed a visa to visit China and in hindsight, I can also see why he has never really gravitated towards visiting China. The idea was daunting. Not just the lengthy visa process but all aspects of China; the size (how do you choose where to go?), the language, the myths (credit care theft and questionable food). But the more he spoke to people about travelling to China, the more it strengthened his conviction that this is a country that MUST be experience.

The polarising responses from, “Why would you ever go to China?” to “Oh my god, you are going to love it” started to feed his curiosity and fascination with a country that has dominated feats of human ingenuity for thousands of years.

We planned for a 17-day trip flying into Beijing, then fly to Yunnan for the main chunk of the trip. We thought that it’s a ‘must’ to check out the Forbidden City and Great Wall of China since it was Jesse’s first visit (and we’ve been watching some Chinese period dramas haha). May is a great time to visit China; it was sweater weather everyday! Before I start on the trip itself, here are a few apps that you should also download on your phone before you make the trip.

APPs to download before you visit China

Didi: Like Uber or Grab app in Singapore, to get private hire rides
Mei Tuan: A one-stop app for food deliveries, medication deliveries, ANYTHING
Dian Ping: Features sights or restaurants that are location-based, super useful when you’re clueless about where to go
AliPay: To pretty much make payment for everything!
WeChat (WePay): An alternative for payments throughout China. And to stay in contact with your hosts in your homestays, hotels, or drivers
AMap: Google Map or Apple Map is not as reliable as this one; it’s super detailed – highly recommended
Klook: Great for booking certain day trips, we also bought e-SIM via Klook and it’s easy to add credit to your e-SIM plan while you’re in China
* Do put in your credit card details while you’re still at your home country because the activation for a lot of the above maps requires a WeChat account (they send a OTP code to your registered number, which you can use your regular mobile phone number. The e-SIM we got from Klook doesn’t come with a China number)

Where and when?

This was how we split up the trip:-
Beijing: 5 nights
Dali: 3 nights
Lijiang: 4 nights
Tiger Leaping Gorge: 2 nights
Shangri La: 2 nights
Kunming: 1 night

BEIJING

We booked a hotel at Wang Fu Jing area, which we now know was the it place to stay in China… probably 20 years ago. That said, it was still super central and in the first ring (the city is divided by rings) where a lot of the sights were located, kinda easy to get anywhere on the train (traffic is BAD every single day that we were there).

Friend-zoned @ the Temple of Heaven

Firstly, Beijing needs to chill a little with the number of Adidas stores they have ALL over the city hahaha. However, one thing that I actually loved about Adidas in China is that they have their own collection that’s not available anywhere else in the world; totally regretted not buying that jacket with mandarin collar and Chinese-style buttons.

It was Jesse’s first time to China and we thought a visit to the Forbidden City and Great Wall was mandatory. We were super chill travellers and pretty much just decided on what to do, where to go at the start of everyday. I personally LOVE the northern style Chinese food: doughy noodles, dumplings, spicy cold dishes.. Mmmm sign me up!

One important thing that you MUST TAKE NOTE is to NEVER visit China during their public holidays, especially if it’s one that spans across a few days. We missed the Labour day long holiday and seeing videos of how every holiday spot in China was like during that period just send chills down our spines – super intense and you definitely do not want to be stuck in a crowd like that.

You can read all about the Forbidden City and even enhance your visit by watching a few Chinese period dramas before your trip. :p Few things to note: the Forbidden City is closed every Monday and tickets have to be purchased online before your trip. We saw people being turned away at the ticketing counter because they were “sold out”.

No wonder those concubines were carried around in palanquins; this place is massive!

The Forbidden City was constructed in the 1400s and was used as the imperial palace since the Ming Dynasty and Wikipedia says it has 9,999 rooms. I enjoyed walking on its grounds and imagining how bizarre and different life was like back in the days. From the concept of eunuchs to how the emperors cannot have more than 3 mouthfuls of ANY dish so that no one can tell what he likes to eat (to prevent chances of poisoning), etc.

I’ve never really noticed this in my previous visits – but I think they can definitely improve on the English write ups across all of the exhibits. There were many private guides touting once you enter the museum grounds (they charge 400 yuan thereabouts), but we opted for the relatively-unreliable audio guides haha.

Along the streets near Forbidden City

Another common sight at these main sights would be people in costumes everywhere. The streets near these places of interest were littered with studios that provide costumes, hair and makeup services along with a photographer. We thought it was kinda weird, but hell! Everyone is weird! And to be honest, it was actually turned out to be pretty fun having people dressed up around us:

The princesses and us

The Temple of Heaven was where the emperors would visit for annual ceremonies to pray for good weather and good harvests. It really is a cool site that’s spacious (then again it’s spacious in China everywhereeeee) and the temple itself is beautiful. What I think we enjoyed more though, were the beautiful gardens and park all surrounding the temple. On my first trip to the Temple of Heaven, I swung by real early in the morning and there were lots of people hanging out, doing their morning exercises in the park. I saw an elderly man doing calligraphy with water and a huge brush on the floor. It was quite an experience and I definitely recommend hitting this spot earlier in the day.

San Li Tun is still cool as ever with lots of great bars, restaurants and fancy shopping. We also checked out the Hutongs (small alleys around the residences in old Beijing) in Nan Luo Gu Xiang but my favourite was Wu Dao Ying hutong area near Confucious Temple. I found this place on the Dianping app and it’s hipster af. Great cafes and restaurants with a lot of local and international designer stores that are less mainstream. It’s not a huge area though so you prolly don’t have to allocate a bunch of time for this area.

Found this cafe that served great coffee; very cool hipster baristas
Sells hats, fine. But look at that cutie!!!

The Great Wall of China

Before we embarked on this trip, Jesse (being him) told me that we should go to the part of Great Wall that’s “less-touristy”. Ok fine, there are many options for anyone who wants to visit the Great Wall (you could even pitch a tent and stay up there overnight). But there is no way I’m gonna do this:

Jiankou is apparently the unrestored part of the Great Wall that’s open to tourists but… I think I’ll read about other people’s adventures for now (grin). For regular human beings like me, the two main choices would be Badaling or Mutianyu. We got our tickets via Klook and went with the latter. We paid around $35/pax for the entrance + transfers to and from our hotels, and another $20/pax for cable car up to the start point.

Our walk on the Great Wall was from Tower 14 to 20 and back to 14 where the cable car station is at. You could also opt to take a cable car up and toboggan down which I did in 2012, pretty fun!

Doing “great” on the Great Wall
It really was beautiful and impressive

At the time when we were visiting, Jesse said that there’s a marathon that happening on the Great Wall soon. That’s so cool?! Doing a marathon on the Great Wall?! Damn.

DALI

Yunnan made up the main chunk of this China trip and we were both super excited about it (for Lijiang, in particular!) We booked a domestic flight from Beijing to Dali which set us back by about $200/pax. The first thing I noticed when I arrived in Dali was the distinct difference in their accent and the food offerings. We stayed in Dali Old Town at this really cute homestay-style hotel ran by a middle-aged couple from Beijing.

Dali Old Town
Found a cigar and whisky bar. Cigars were mediocre but beggars ain’t choosers :p
Still don’t know what it’s called but it’s potatoes and pork steamed. Yunnan cuisine. Yummy.

Dali Old Town was an exciting place to be. Firstly, it was easy to get around since we could walk everywhere within the ancient town and we were fully occupied and entertained by the new sights and sounds here. There is a huge population of the Bai minority here, so food was different from what we’ve had thus far on the trip. If you like tie-dye, get ready to get tie-dyed-out here; the Bai ethnic people have their unique way of doing these beautiful blue/white tie dyes that are readily available all over Dali. Lots of crotcheted apparels and knick knacks too. The night scene in the ancient town was off the charts; bars and restaurants with live music were available in every other shop along the streets.

Jim’s Bar in Dali Old Town

We found this shop in Xi Zhou Old Town (30 mins car ride from Dali Old Town) where they sold Dali Marble. Another regret I had was NOT bringing home a framed piece from there. The marble pieces looked like water paintings and it’s hard to wrap my head around how they were all stones! Xi Zhou was a picturesque town and definitely worthy of a half-day trip.

The streets were lined with these purple Jacaranda trees which look pretty unreal!

Another popular photo spot:

We really enjoyed Xi Zhou Old Town

In Xi Zhou Old Town, there was this restaurant facing the paddy fields. I’ve forgotten what this restaurant is called but it’d be number one on the restaurant list in Dianping when you’re there. It would’ve been real great, to be honest, if there were less people walking around in the paddy field trying to snap their next best shot… The travel photography scene everywhere we went on this trip was totally wild.

The lunch spot
The view

We saw the easel when we first sat down and thought, “Oh! Someone is painting something” But we quickly learnt that something was amiss because the “painting” looked nothing like the scenery lol. IT WAS JUST A PROP. Omg. These two ladies were at it for close to 40 minutes, I hope they got a good shot or two.

Back to Dali: A cafe that I’d highly recommend is this one in Dali Old Town called 小浓造物, it’s 2nd on the list for ‘Best Coffee in Dali’. We ordered this caramel banana whisky coffee from there and it is one of the best coffee I’ve had (ok fine, also because it’s spiked with whisky hehe)

You gotta get your coffee fix here if you’re in Dali!
Met one half of the couple who ran this cafe

We were in there when she was about to call it a day but there was this lady (in pink) who told us that we’re at the best coffee spot in Dali. We chatted and learnt that they were actually classmates back at a coffee academy in Beijing. The owner relocated to Dali because she really liked it here and her friend who is currently living in Germany as an Italian/Chinese translator just got in that very day to visit her friend! We promised to swing by again the following day, but little did we know…

Kinda wish I ordered two cups!

Thinking back on the experience we had makes my stomach churn. This was the last meal Jesse and I had that night and at 5am, the runs and throwing up started…

We didn’t know if it was the altitude, the beers or that fateful fried noodles supper we had (most likely a combination of all three, it could also be the bad handling of the mushrooms, we heard?) but we were down for the entirety of the following day. At this point, I wished that I had input my details into that Mei Tuan app properly because they had delivery services for medication and food. Instead, Jesse braved the streets and went out feeling shitty (literally T_T) to get meds for us from the pharmacy, we thought it would get better after a while but we got worried after hours of bad toilet runs and me hardly able to even drink water without throwing everything back out.

We contemplated extending our stay in Dali if we don’t feel better soon. The owner of the hotel (Yunxi Hotel) was super sweet and made us millet porridge when she learnt that we were both down with food poisoning. Sigh. We were supposed to explore the lake-side half of Dali on this day but had to miss all that part of Dali because of this little misfortune. Quite a shame.

The only thing we ate that entire day. And it was really a life saver.

We felt less feeble the following morning and decided to carry on with our travel plans: a 2-hour car ride to Lijiang from Dali. VERY VERY BRAVE. We starved ourselves and didn’t eat or drink much after that millet meal, worried that we’d have to make restroom runs during the car ride. Thinking back, I still don’t know how we made that car ride. Goodness.

But we did. We made it to Lijiang. From then on, the weak tummies and unpredictable diarrhoeas continued on and off until the day we had to come back to Singapore 9 days later. *sadness*

LIJIANG

If Dali was Seminyak of Bali, then in my opinion, Lijiang would’ve been the Ubud. The old towns in Lijiang were absolutely gorgeous and the general feel of the place was more chill and laidback. Lijiang Old Town is a UNESCO Heritage Site and it wasn’t hard to see why. We allocated 4 nights in Lijiang and in hindsight, I would’ve planned for a longer stay in Lijiang, and stay in the different old towns just to maximise our visit and see more of this gorgeous part of Yunnan.

We got a beautiful room in the heart of Lijiang Old Town – Serene Courtyard, at only $80/night. It’s got a huge bathtub, heated toilet bowl with bidet (this is crucial at this point, as you can imagine) and it was right in front of one of the main site within the Old Town called Mu Fu 木府. Breakfast was provided every morning at a nearby breakfast noodle place (It was delicious but I could only stomach a couple mouthfuls every morning)

No cars in the Old Town, that’s the homestay boss walking our bags to the hotel
Yunnan specialty – Guo Qiao Mi Xian 过桥米线

Yunnan is a great place to get high quality Pu’er tea leaves and coffee beans, both grown locally. The old town was an organised chaos that was enchantingly beautiful; like it came out of a painting.

Lijiang Old Town
Cobble stone streets, no cars, lots of food, live music, tea houses and hand-poured coffees
How is this even a real place?!
How is this not a themepark? Or a movie set?!

As you can imagine, Lijiang was crawling with tourists and people in costumes everywhere. No judgement – if you’re planning to visit this few spots in Yunnan, Lijiang is definitely the place (besides Dali and Shangri La) to do your photoshoots. The old town is a great backdrop and you can also opt to go out to the plains or the mountains.

The Old Town is built on a hill, and the view from the top was amazing. I’ve seen photos of the Old Town from a vantage point up on the hill and it’s gorgeous! You might consider doing that if you do end up in Lijiang too.

We booked a driver for a full day the following day to do a trip outside of Lijiang Old Town to visit three other Old Towns – Yu Hu 玉湖村 (the furthest from Lijiang Old Town, about 45 mins car ride), Bai Sha 白沙镇 and Shu He 束河古镇. We paid 300 yuan to have the driver for the entire day.

Yu Hu Village 玉湖村 stands at the bottom of Yu Long Snow Mountain. If you think that the view of the snowy mountains was spectacular from Lijiang, wait till you get to Yu Hu Village! Out of all the old towns that we’ve visited, Yu Hu is the most “undeveloped” BUT there were a lot of building and construction ongoing while we visited. We chatted with some of the locals and learnt that the resort and tourism scene has exploded over the last few years and we believe it’s going to be packed with tourists in no time.

If you do have more time in Lijiang, I would actually recommended spending a night or two in Yu Hu Village especially if you wanna get away from the noise and hustle for a while. Apart from that awesome view of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, we spotted a few really cool resorts here – many built with stones for walls, which is apparently how the Bai ethnic people build their houses.

A cafe that kinda looks like a part of a castle. Seriously!

One of the sights in Yu Hu Village was a lake. Hmm, the lake was kinda underwhelming; I didn’t even take a photo of it. BUT, when we got to the big fields near the lake, we saw this:

Baby goats to rent for walks or photoshoots hahaha!
Say no more, take my money!

This was probably the highlight of my day, those baby goats were so cute. I stopped myself from thinking about what is going to happen to them once they grow up. But I guess that’s how life is for them – utilised / exploited / monetised. I paid money to take one for a walk… 35 yuan for 30 mins. I am sure I enjoyed the walk more than the baby goat, but I do hope he at least had a bit of fun too.

You are so cute, little kid.

The car ride to Bai Sha Town was easy and took another 20 mins or so. Bai Sha was also beautiful, jees, all of these old towns… We grabbed lunch here and spotted a lot of cafes where you could CLIMB ONTO the roofs to take photos against a stunning mountainous backdrop. We didn’t do it, but we were definitely impressed with the travel photography here and how the shops here really milked its gorgeous surroundings.

Just another random, pretty cafe.
Yunnan actually has a great selection of “Thai-style” food.
Actually having some appetite for a proper lunch today!

Because of it’s proximity to southeast Asia, Yunnan actually offers a great selection of Thai-style cuisine. They are big on som tams (Thai Papaya Salad). Lunch was Yunnan style rice noodles with a twist – tom yam soup! It was a breath of fresh air and a good break from all the Chinese food we’ve been having.
Update: I’ve learnt that Yunnan has a most number of tribes within the country and the thai-cuisine we had were actually food from 傣族 Dai Tribe.

Old-Towned out.
Tile Cat / 瓦猫

I’m excited to share about Tile Cat (瓦猫) – the Bai people who dominate the local ethnic population believe that these fierce-looking cats are auspicious items which can bring households protection and wealth. I’ve noticed these little gargoyle-like statues at the top of roofs in Yunnan but I never knew what they were until I Googled it.

These clay figurines have been present since the Ming Dynasty and today, they are still popular gifts or a must-have for new houses built. We visited this store in Bai Sha Town where they have a few REAL Tile Cats for sale – these were taken off roofs; some of them have moss on them and all of them were uniquely aged. We were very tempted to buy one of these original cats home, but settled for a smaller, more modern, friendlier-looking replica instead.

Back in the hotel after a long day of walking, and realising that the Tile Cat at the roof opposite is gone –
with a gapping hole in its place. Interesting.

We bailed on Shu He Old Town because…. we’ve seen enough old towns haha. Visiting all 3 old towns within a day is, however, very doable. We decided to return back to Lijiang Old Town for dinner instead.

Lijiang has got to be my favourite stop in Yunnan. If I could replan my itinerary, I might skip Shangri-La altogether and stay in Lijiang longer, and split up the nights in different areas within Lijiang, stay in different hotels.

We read that the golf course with the highest altitude in Guinness Book of Records was in Lijiang (I just did a little fact check, and realised that it’s apparently been overtaken by another one in India that stands at 3900m above sea level) standing at 3100m. Jesse was itching to make another trip to Lijiang WHILE we were still in Lijiang hahaha.

Dude check out that view!

TIGER LEAPING GORGE

Tiger Leaping Gorge can be a day-trip from Lijiang; it’s a 2-hour drive away. We’re actually moving down in elevation but the roads in the gorge were pretty winding and precarious-looking. We hired the same driver to take us there and it set us back by around 450 yuan. We had initially planned to spend 2 nights here because Jesse wanted to do a 25km hike and I was only down to do a PART of it lol. But because of unforeseen circumstances with our bad tum-tums, we settled on just a short 2-3 hour hike together from Halfway Hotel up to our hotel (云泊金沙) on the map below. Here on this map are some of the simpler routes that are available near our hotel.

AND, the hotel! Our hotel has one hell of a VIEW!

The hotel itself is a family-ran, SUPER casual type of homestay; it really felt like I was just crashing somebody’s house. But the amenities were good – great TV with free movies (pretty important for us lol), clean and warm shower, and just really really nice and friendly people. (The people we’ve met in Yunnan were really super nice, to be honest!)

This view is pretty hard to beat!
Halfway Hotel was the starting point of our hike

This hotel is pretty sick too. The Tigerbucks Coffee spot serves great coffee, cocktails and has a cute selection of pastries. What’s not seen in this photo is a huge viewing deck overlooking the gorge.

And then I had to use the washroom.

I’ve gotten a lot of questions about the toilet situation in China. For the most part of it, the toilet situation isn’t much of a situation – when you’re out in super crowded touristy “Old Town type” areas, don’t expect to find “decent” toilets. A lot of them still have signs reminding people to throw their used toilet paper into the waste paper baskets in the cubicles, so you can imagine the smell.

Most of them were squatters, some of them had a combination of squatters and toilet bowls. When I was in Beijing in one of the hutongs, I had to visit a toilet where (I got a mild shock when I entered the toilet because I could see the faces and knees of 3 ladies going about their businesses as I waited for my turn) I had to squat and pee next to a woman who was seated on the toilet bowl next to me. She was so close, I could SEE what she was watching on her phone as she does her Number 2. There were no doors. No walls, only chest-high partitions separating each stall.

I advise everyone to be armed with tissue paper and wet toilet wipes.

I saw a same same but different toilet at Tiger Leaping Gorge Halfway Hotel again and decided to take a photo since it was empty:

The ladies at Halfway Hotel , Tiger Leaping Gorge

I guess I appreciate that they made the walls high enough so you don’t have to stare into someone’s face as you do the deed lol. I know it looks like it has good ventilation, but the smell… could possibly bring a dead person to life.

O K A Y . I picked a photo where it looked precarious! Haha!

It was quite an easy hike to be honest, takes about 2 hours or 2ish if you take your time. Lots of flat terrain and occasional undulating ones. The view was breathtaking and it really felt great to be out in the nature with less people around. We were blessed with good weather, which I thought was pretty important because I would NOT want to do this hike in wet weather. The trail ends with a constant sandy downslope and I can imagine it to be silty and slippery when it rains.

Spotted some goats! Everyone’s got places to go!
Nailed it, with zero toilet breaks! Haha.

SHANGRI-LA

Do you know that Shangri-La wasn’t called Shangri-La up until 2001? It’s previous name was Zhong Dian. But honestly, pretty good move to change it to Shangri-La huh? The mystic and allure of getting named after a mythical land.

It was cool and chilly at night in Shangri-La in May all thanks to its high elevation. We planned to stay at this spot for only 2 nights even though we heard a lot about the beautiful hikes one could take from here. To me, our stay in Shangri-La was pretty lacklustre; we stayed in the Old Town area and to be frank, we were already feeling pretty blasé at this point about ancient towns.

I have a good story about our ride from Tiger Leaping Gorge to Shangri-La though.
The good folks at our homestay in Tiger Leaping Gorge told us that she could book us a carpool ride to Shangri-La. The ride will be about 2 hours long and it’ll cost us 88 yuan/pax which was a steal because it would prolly cost us another 400-600 yuan if we booked a private hire.

How would you envision a “carpool ride”? Pick you up from your hotel, and perhaps another 3 – 4 persons from other hotels around the area and head over to Shangri-La? We boarded a car with a local driver and one other guy (who also looks like a local; super gross, scratching his greasy head, yawning LOUDLY, speaking loudly the whole time). Along the way, the driver would stop at random, lost-looking people waiting by the road and ask if they’re going to Shangri-La. Eventually, we picked up another 2 middle-aged men, separately. It was a very bizarre experience because we didn’t know what to expect, how many more people we’re gonna pick up in our beat-up 7-seater. And when we arrived at Shangri-La, the driver told us that he only does drop-offs at 3 spots, “Which one do you want?” Hahahahaha. It was quite a disaster since we weren’t familiar with the area. We alighted and eventually found our hotel after dragging our wheelie luggages up and down the cobblestone streets a few times.

Jesse was a little disappointed in our hotel. We put up at Arro Khampa Shangri-La by Zinc Journey which was thoughtfully situated in the heart of the Old Town. We paid $250/night for a suite but Jesse definitely expected a little more from this place. “Should’ve stayed in Banyan Tree,” he said. Oh well. We had a good stay overall (breakfast was quite lame though, ngl).

I think I’d do Shangri-La injustice if I continue talking about how we wished we extended our stay in Lijiang and skipped Shangri-La altogether. I think that Shangri-La would be a dream for hikers, and travellers who enjoy getting out into nature. We spent most of our 2 days in the old town (which is the smallest one out of all that we’ve visited) and only left town for Songzanlin Monastery which we thought lacked authenticity because of how it just feels like another photo spot for avid photographers / Instagram models. Most of the nature spots were plans or nature parks, and I think they can be day trips from Lijiang. And Lijiang was definitely a better base to be situated in.

In Shangri-La Old Town
Most of the traditional houses here were all built out of wood with intrinsic carvings
A traditional barbeque dinner with yak meat which is native to the Tibetan plateau and surrounding areas

The main city area within Shangri-La is small (airport was only 15 mins drive away) and Songzanlin Monastery, the largest Tibetan Buddhist Temple in Yunnan was a mere 15 mins drive away. (Oh, do remember to bring along your passports when you’re visiting these bigger sights in China.)

There was a mildly-challenging flight of stairs to scale to get to the temples, it was made extra challenging because I get winded even from eating noodles too quickly at this high altitude haha. But frankly, it’s also nothing to be worried about.

I personally saw this cat take a leak on this two girls’ handbags before he came over and laid in the middle of the walkway. The two young ladies left their stuff unattended and were camwhoring a short distance away. What an asshole of a cat lol. Sorry for gloating.

Songzanlin Monastery

No photography allowed in the temples, and I was quite happy to know that, because as you can see in the background of the photo above, this spot was also crawling with costume-d tourists just having private photoshoots. Sometimes, it’s amusing. Sometimes it can get a bit annoying. I just felt that the temple had finally withheld a bit of its dignity by not allowing photography in its grandiose prayer halls.

And then we went to Kunming for a night and mainly to catch our flight back to Singapore. Nice little city that doesn’t warrant more than 2 nights’ stay. We stayed at Moon and Chalice Hotel which was beauuuutiful and inexpensive (what a dreamy name too, right?).



I haven’t done up a blog post in a while and this was quite a bit of a verbal vomit for me. I hope you’ve enjoyed the read and enjoyed Yunnan vicariously through this entry!

Honestly, I think China has a bad rep: horrific toilet without doors, “rude people”, etc. Hmm. I think that there are rude people everywhere in the world, and I haven’t actually encountered one single rude person during this trip. A lot of the folks I crossed paths with were actually really down-to-earth, friendly and helpful. I’ve never once felt unsafe (with any situation that I was in or with my belongings wrt pickpockets or other petty crimes). The food was delicious. And if you would just remember to be respectful, friendly and smart (as you should regardless of where in the world you are), you’ll do fine.

As for language.. I think it was obviously easy for me because I speak Chinese and communication in both Beijing and Yunnan wasn’t much of a chore. With apps like Didi, Alipay or WeChat (the translation function was awesome!), getting around was very manageable. For non Chinese-speakers, there might be some things that would probably take a bit more effort – like understanding menus, reading write-ups in museums, communicating with shop keepers, etc. But I can imagine how that would also add to the fun and adventure of visiting a place where you do not speak their native language.

China is beautiful and so, so vast. I like how it was never really at the top of my Must-Go list, and how I’ve thoroughly enjoyed this trip to Beijing and Yunnan; I love proving myself wrong like that. 🙂 It would be great to return to Lijiang, or check out other Chinese cities that are high up on my list now like Cheng Du, Chong Qing, Xi An, Su Zhou and the Zhang Jia Jie area.

Looking forward to more adventures.

My First Women’s Circle

I gotta say, before I met Jesse, I’ve never known what a “men’s circle” or a “women’s circle” is. 

“Is it like Alcoholic Anonymous?” I remember asking him. 

I attended my first women’s circle a while back. First off, let me give you some context – I’m not always the most comfortable with strangers. I despise small talks and it takes me 5 meetings or 5 stiff drinks to really start to warm up to the idea of budding a new friendship with a complete stranger. 

However, I acknowledge and agree with the fact that there are great people everywhere. This statement is said too many times but I’m gonna say it again – the problem lies with me, not you (or “people”, in this case). 

You can say that I was completed thrown off my course and pleasantly surprised at how well my first women’s circle went. So good that I was actually already looking forward to a next session with these ladies by the time the first one ended. These was one of the few times that I was proud of myself for putting myself in an uncomfortable position just to prove myself wrong. The outcome was well worth the discomfort. 

Kudos to the two ladies who saw the need to organise the get-together and brought the few of us – Women Of Blended Families – together. I wouldn’t say that I am someone who would welcome and take on adversities head-on all the time in the love department, but there sure are tell tale signs in my dating history indicating that I had subconsciously put myself in arguably ‘atypical’ relationships; first a same-sex relationship, now an interracial one with a single Dad. 

With bated breath and zero expectations, I walked into the lovely home of one of the organisers of the sharing session. 

It started with us taking turns to shed light into our families and background, proving how we were qualified to sit at the table. 

I shared about how I was previously in a same-sex marriage, and am currently seeing a single father with two daughters. 

I met women with families representing various permutations of what “blended families” might mean: woman married to single dad, woman dating single dad, single mom married to single dad, single mom who married single dad and subsequently have children together. 

My point is – every family is different and it cannot be more evident to me that afternoon. More importantly, each and every one of us was sitting at that table sipping tea because we all acknowledged that there is wisdom to be share and comfort in numbers seeked. 

It was quite a surprise to know that my “problems” weren’t unique at all. I mean.. don’t we all always make a big deal of our trials and tribulations thinking “no one understands me” / “I am so goddamn special”? Short answer: No. It was comforting to know that I wasn’t being crazy for having feelings of jealousy towards my partner’s children (especially in the beginning of our relationship), how my insecurities were not unfounded.. and having my fears verified. I went into a relationship with my partner with eyes wide open; I should’ve read the fine prints, should’ve been smart enough to foresee the challenges awaiting me. 

(Before the meeting, we were each sent a simple questionnaire with a few questions like “What are the challenges you face?”, “What are the topics you’d be curious about?” etc.)

Challenges I face:

– The feeling of being “extra” and not fitting in I recall early days of dating when I would be out with my partner and his two daughters – they would fight to take the seats next to their Dad, and both would want to hold Dad’s hands when we walk. I felt unwanted. Because they are white and I’m Asian, I’d have wild ideas of thinking perhaps I might even look like the family’s domestic helper to strangers passing by.

There were also times when the girls have mentioned my partner’s ex’s name when they were actually referring to me. Those occurrences did not help with my insecurities of feeling extra, or even being “temporary”. 

Fortunately, as I build a relationship with his daughters, I have been feeling less and less of these emotions.

– Having to adjust and make plans around my partner’s ex and his children’s plans. No spontaneity.

My partner and his ex are not from Singapore. And because they co-parent their children, big decisions like “where to live” or whether they would have to relocate for their children’s further education requires them to work towards a common goal, at least until the children are independent. At the height of the pandemic, there were discussions of his ex-wife relocating because of her work, children’s education plans etc – the destination was unclear and open to discussion – maybe Bali, USA, or even Mexico. At that point of time, I felt that I do not have much say even though that might mean my partner also relocating, potentially changing the dynamics of my relationship with him. I felt like a “follower”, waiting for them to make a decision before I know what is going to be the next step. They are currently still in Singapore, but I don’t know when might be the next time something similar would pop up. It’s always something that hangs over my head. 

This has been one of the topics that we repeatedly returned to since the beginning of our relationship. To be honest, I think having a mutual understanding that we should BOTH be open to various possibilities with regards to where we would be living is a prerequisite to dating non-native. 

– Jealous of his children. Knowing that I would never be first priority.

I suppose this stood out particularly because I do not have children of my own and have never dated another single dad/mom. It comes hand-in-hand with knowing that I will never be top priority in his life; the children will always come first. I’ve caught myself wondering if things would be different and less complicated if he does not have children. Frankly, I don’t know, I honestly don’t know. There is a stark difference from my previous dating experiences where the relationship has always been more straightforward – between two persons. I would never say that dating a single Dad/Mom is more difficult per se, every damn relationship between two people is difficult. But there is undoubtedly an extra layer of complexities involved. I feel ashamed about having these feelings, and if I can be honest, hitting the internet and reading about stories from other women who shared similar plights helped me cope with my emotions (knowing that it’s common). I also try to verbalise these feelings to my partner so that he understands some “triggers” and can help me through it.

I know that we might never have children of our own, while he has two that will bind him to his previous marriage forever. And to be fair, I don’t even know if having OUR own children would change anything. I constantly remind myself that this is the he I met, and this is the he that I will continue love, learn and accept. 

– Insecurities of not being enough, subconsciously comparing myself to his previous relationships

I’d think that this has more to do with my innate insecurities. It is not the most helpful that my partner still has to be in close contact with his ex-partner because they co-parent. I know that his children are the most important people to him, and that it is something that is shared with someone from an important relationship he once had. But even if we were to have children of our own, it might not change anything. Thus.. I concluded that this is not a good thought to have.

I believe this is something that I have to work within myself. I could be feeling this way regardless of who my partner is. 

– Not sure of my role with his children

There had been times when I was alone with my partner’s children and they were out of line, and I am not sure how I should deal with it. My partner said, “You are an adult and you definitely have the right and capacity to handle it.” But I am also aware of my role – I am their Dad’s girlfriend. I would never, ever want to step into a mother’s role in their eyes, and am often torn between how my behaviour should be as a part time caregiver. More importantly, I want maintain a good relationship and friendship with them because I feel that would be what I want if I were them. It might sound brutal but they aren’t my children, I am not married to their father, therefore I’d never want to impose my ways on how those kids should be raised or disciplined. 

I imagine myself in their shoes. It’ll be nice to just have another “auntie” figure in their lives whom they know would always be on their side.

There are things that I might never be able to say.. like “I know how you feel”, because I would never fully understand. But the least I could do is to be mature and rational enough to empathise with my partner’s plight. I believe that my partner might not even be the same person if he had not experienced his divorce, or have children. His exhibition of being a responsible father was (and is still) an attribute that I respect, and adore. I might not have fallen for him if he wasn’t a single dad, like how he might not have fallen for me if I wasn’t an “ex-lesbian”. (Hahaha kidding) I can’t stand when people label me as ex-lesbian. 

And then there was time travel. 

These ladies have obviously been in it for longer than I have. There were some who dated single dads and went on to have children together – a his, hers and ours situation. There were single moms married to single dads working on blending two families together. There were discussions about ex-wives woes, financial battles (inline with ex-wife woes), parenting styles, living situations (from whose house, to which country to live in), in-laws, etc. Three hours was not enough to get to the bottom of winning this blended families game, but definitely long enough for me to know that there is, and will always be a solution to everything. And there will always be problems, regardless of what sort of relationship it is, blended or not. 

I think I am lucky to have a partner who is understanding and always willing to listen. I am lucky that even though he has children that are not mine, these kids love and respect me and bring joy to my life. I am lucky that he accepts my past. I am lucky that I never really had to deal with any “ex-wife woes” because she is a great person, is friendly to me and is a wonderful mother to their children. I feel lucky to have found love in unexpected places with “unexpected people”. I acknowledge that there will always be problems regardless of who I am dating or is married to. 

We encounter problems dating a “regular” single and available person. I mean, hell, don’t we even run into problems dealing with ourselves sometimes?! The sad truth is that every relationship comes with problems and challenges. Good news is: we always have the choice to choose our “difficult”. 

A calm sea has never made a good sailor. 

Gallivanting

This blog is pretty dead – but there is also beauty in it, considering how it has come one full circle. I started a blog when it felt natural to move on from my written journals (since I could add photos and it’ll be forever on the internet). Now that no one reads personal blogs anymore, it does feel like it’s come a full circle, no?

I am still here, though I regrettably don’t have that same dedication and mental space to pen down my feelings as often as I did before.

Saw an old comment posted by a reader in 2017 by chance earlier – it said, “I’m so happy that you started writing again. One dies when one stops writing.” That resonated with me. Well one does not die, per se, when one stops writing. But the constant conversation with oneself has to always be there. So I am writing again tonight.

1 a.m. Perfect time to reflect. The world is quiet and my head is also kinda quiet. I had a busy day doing “nothings” and I’m dying to decompress.

I have been doing alright, even though I’m still bumping my head around with some stuff. There has been more stability and clarity in some aspects of my life, but I am still figuring out the bigger picture, which is why I can never Y.O.L.O. I think and worry too much. Worse thing is, I do all that with no action that follows. Haha.

I’ve been thinking about work – like what I’m going to do to make a decent income kind of “work”. I’ve always believed in having multiple sources of income, and I am still striving to get that in my life. I’ve tried a bunch of different things (and am still doing so), but I hope to attain more clarity and conviction on that. (Need to invest more) I’m often torn between “slogging half my life away to save for retirement” vs “live within your means, with prudence, and have the capacity to savour every single day”. I hope to strike a balance with that and find something which allows me to have both.

Still searching. Wish I had a rich Dad. (kidding)

Life has been stable with Jesse. We steal time amidst our schedules to have fun together. That man is working very hard at work and I respect that. I envy how his work allows him to be anywhere in the world – all he needs is his pair of hands. I think I’d like to have work that allows me to be anywhere in the world too.

It is an art living with another person, but I think we are doing okay. Perhaps a little better than okay – we have harmony at home. I think we are both appreciative of what the other do for the house, and we have a good synergy when it comes to keeping up with chores and mundane everyday things. We make time for fun and pleasure. Most times, we are both understanding and accommodating towards each other’s needs. We try to meet at the middle ground with our differences. That, I am grateful for.

The future though. I think about it a lot. I always catch myself wondering about how it’ll be like. We’ve had multiple conversations about how things might be like five or ten years down the road – will we still be in Singapore? Or, where will we be? Will we be shuffling around different cities? I also fear the day when Jesse would have leave (for various reasons). Will I be ready to be there for him physically? What does that entail and how do I make sure I am ready? If not, what does it mean? And.. I would like to be ready for that. How do I get there?

However, one of the most heartening thing I have is how he makes me feel like we have what it takes to take on whatever that’s coming at us in time. I pray for us to always have the grit and conviction to stick together through the storms. I know that takes work and constant work and checking in, and I am willing to do my part.

Also, I need to work on getting my divorce procedure done. Not for any fancy reasons but because I ought to do things properly. It would be a good closure for everyone.

Carpe Noctem

I love the night, especially quiet ones like tonight. It is so still that I can almost hear the dialogues I have with myself in my head.

Carpe noctem.

I wondered why I didn’t get off the car tonight. Because I cared. And maybe a little too much. Oh well. I enjoyed going out tonight, it was nice to see people, friends, acquaintances. It was just nice to see familiar faces and to get into a bit of action. Unhappy stuff aside, it was good. And to be honest, I have full control of MY emotions. I have full control of MY choices. I have full control of my decisions and my actions. I actually have a lot of power. And it really doesn’t make sense to validate the negative feelings from things that are out of my control and power. I have control of my emotions and if it gives me unpleasant feelings, I can just walk away from it. And then learn from it, and learn more about myself.

I was really happy to see my friends today, despite it being in a nicely curated social setting (not my home ground). I get so socially awkward at times. But I felt especially at ease tonight, because Jesse was with me.

Maybe I should just give less of a shit. That may be a very uncultured way of putting things, but what I meant to say is – perhaps I should ‘take a chill pill’ or, essentially don’t take things to heart so much.

I mean.. the heart can only take that much.

(Listening to The Blaze live on Youtube now. So. Good.)

And just put on some perfume. It’s 3:16am. But I deserve to smell like Mimosa and Cardamom even at unearthly hours.

I miss travelling. I miss that rush when you first step out of the airport into a city that looks and feels completely unfamiliar. I miss being pleasantly surprised at the unexpected. Darn, I even miss the frantic mental exchange rate conversion calculations when I’m out shopping.

I miss the drive; that insatiable hunger and curiosity! I miss eyebrow-raising moments, those gasps of disbelief in retrospect of something you never thought you would or could do. I miss sincere conversations with complete strangers. I love it the most when I can feel like I’m at home, albeit fleeting, in a foreign country. I miss the quirky, the misunderstood, the misrepresented, the fringes, the unseemings, and the stray cats of every place I’ve been and haven’t been to. I miss being happy to be proven wrong. I miss that breath of fresh air – in a place, an experience, or a person. I miss adventure.

That’s right, I think I miss adventure.

I miss adventure and this adventure is a mental state.

I am also looking forward to the America trip because I see it as a real break for me, one that I really need. I’m also thrilled to meet Jesse’s family and friends, and experience the country where he grew up in with him. I think I really do need to get away and shut my mind off from everything that is happening at home too. Work, money, career, future. Pfft. It really gets me down sometimes. I feel like I’ve lost my fucking soul and the worst part is, I don’t even really recognise it so I don’t know how to get it back. Perhaps I just got to make up a new one. Realign and collect myself, and my mental state. Nothing more ideal than throwing myself right into the eye of the unexpected to trigger some kind of mental stimulation and get new perspectives. Perhaps this could be an adventure in an adventure.

Aren’t we all looking for an adventure?

Coping with Anxiety Attacks

I had an anxiety attack yesterday.

It happened out of nowhere and for no apparent reason. I was just feeling “nervous” and felt pins and needles and numbness in strange parts of my body – on my upper lip, the area between my eyebrows on my forehead and nose bridge, my ears, outer areas of my arms just right above the elbows, back of my head. I was sweating. Felt a little dizzy and nauseous, felt like a diarrhoea was coming. Thankfully, it was quite a low-key (but long drawn) one and I was, in a strange way, calm enough to remember what to do when I start feeling this way – distract myself, talk to myself, observe the surroundings, get comfortable, BREATHE. And most importantly, tell myself that this is temporary and it will soon pass.

I think a lot of people could confuse regular stress or fear with an attack of this sort. Until you’ve felt it before, I don’t really know how to explain the difference. I once had an anxiety attack WHILE eating wanton noodles at Holland Village food centre, no apparent triggers or anything, and I was actually having a good time but it just happened out of the blue.

I read somewhere that once you’ve had an anxiety/panic attack before, chances are, it will happen again. There is also this fear of it happening again (and this does not help at all). I thought it’ll be good to share how it feels like so people know how it’s like to have an anxiety attack, or, if you are around someone having an anxiety attack, how you can help.

There had been times when it happened and my friends got really worried about me because I suddenly just wanted to lie down in a cafe (I put a few chairs together and did lie down, and started a video on my phone and started watching it). People would tell me to “Relax” or “Don’t think so much”, “Don’t worry” or kept asking “Are you ok? Are you ok?”. All were done with good intentions, but sometimes they’d just make me feel worse. I knew I would’ve done the same for a friend if I am unfamiliar with what he/she is going through.

I remember the first time I felt this way. I travelled alone to Dublin on a media trip; jetlagged, tired, all was good until I headed out at the destination for a little walk and got coffee, and then it hit me. This irrational fear of “I am alone in a foreign city”, suddenly thinking about the many things to do, thinking about home. The more these thoughts come, the more nervous I felt, and psychological state started to present itself physically – I had to take deep, big breaths like yawns to take in more air, my hands started shaking, heart racing.

It got really bad at the first dinner during the trip, I excused myself to return to the hotel on my own first. Called Emma over the phone and she spoke to me for quite a while. I remember watching Project Runway on the television too. I knew I just needed to distract myself. Eventually, I slept it off.

1 to 2 years later, I encountered the worst bout of a panic attack I ever gotten. I woke up in the middle of the night covered in cold sweat, gasping for air. My heart was pounding so hard, it felt like it was going to pop out of my chest. Numbness in my limbs and face. I thought I was having a heart attack and I was very close to waking my mother up (in hindsight, I am glad I did not because she would have freaked out and that would’ve definitely made matters worse). I stumbled into the kitchen to get a snack and water, put on something random on Netflix and started talking to myself out loud:

“There are 5 people in this scene. The table is round, she is eating a dessert.”

I look around my room, touched the things around me and verbalised how every item felt physically.

I was eating (I remember it was a lo po peng) and my hands were shaking so hard the flakes ended up all over the place. I honestly thought I was going to die, with lo po peng in my hand, on my bed, “in my sleep”.

The important thing for me is recognising that it is temporary. I WILL NOT DIE.

It had always been helpful for me to start distracting myself and quit thinking about what’s happening in my head. Afterall, our body, mind and breath has a close relationship – your thoughts, your breathing, your physical state all affect each other directly – that’s why you might “feel cold” when you are meditating, or, breathe faster when you are having angry thoughts.

There are many articles online that recommends ways to get over a an anxiety or panic attack, or also some lifestyle changes that one can look into – less alcohol, less caffeine, practise mindfulness, meditate, regular exercises.

I am grateful for people who stay calm FOR me when I am obviously losing my shit inside my head. Sometimes, talking to me helps, other times, I just want to be left alone. Sometimes, I like to be touched physically, sometimes I don’t. I think it’s important to ask what the other person needs. BUT, being around that person and assuring him/her that you will be around is crucial, for me at least.

There are many articles online that explains some possible causes and coping mechanisms for anxiety and panic attacks.

Transitions

Change is the only constant, but change is not always easy.

The pandemic has affected all of us in one way or another, some of us had experienced it in ways greater than others. It is a time filled with uncertainties and helplessness, frustration, fear. It is important for us to realise that this too will eventually pass, to hold on to grit and hope, and more importantly be prepared for the post-pandemic world.

I hope all of you are doing okay.

We make the best out of what we have. That is the attitude I held on to since the beginning. This pandemic is almost like having a panic attack – let’s cope – come to terms with reality, stay calm, be smart about it, learn from it, and know that it will come to an end eventually. And then prepare ourselves for the next big wave after we come out of this. Make the best out of what we have.

2020/2021 is just chock-full of big changes for me – in work, in relationships and in my general outlook on life. All these were also inevitably amplified by the pandemic, from small changes like not being able to head out for that much-needed drink with close friends, to real issues like watching people whom I hold close to heart leave the country without knowing when they can return. I feel grateful that the people around me are healthy, and that we still have the resources to cope with the adversities as they come at us.

“You are talented, you have a lot in life”, is what many close friends will say to me when I tell them that I feel lost with my future. I reckoned that everyone MUST feel like this every once in a while. Like I’ve said before, I might not know what I want in life, but I know what I don’t want – so that is still a good guide to my next step in life. I feel that there are a lot of things I can do and want to do (or maybe this is just the ENFP in me), I am the Campaigner and I sure have a lot of campaigns I have for myself albeit them being just ideas or grandiose daydreams with no concrete game plans.

In 2020, I officially walked away from one of the most important relationships I had in my life. The end of that relationship was difficult, filled with sadness, anger, blame, disappointment, and in an almost-twisted way, love. It was also a cathartic release. I look back upon it now with nothing but gratitude.

I have made mistakes along the way and realised the times when I could have handled things in a better way, been a bigger person, communicated better. Esther Perel said that we are all going to have more than one marriage in our lifetimes, and it is up to us to decide if we want to do it to be with the same person or not. The ship had sailed. She and I did not make it.

Time only moves in one direction. Accept the past, learn, and move on. I have gained a lot, and these are things that will be with me for life. Sadness is transient, gratitude lasts forever.

I’ve been thinking a lot about the future. I think the pandemic did this to me. It’s not a bad thing. I had been living day-to-day, just cruising for too darn long. Why? Because it has been easy. I almost cannot decide whether “easy” is a good or a bad thing. There has to be some sort of comfort we get from “easy”. Is comfort a good or bad thing? How do we chase after ease and comfort knowing that those are not exactly the best for us?

Everything is in transition right now. I’ve lost friends. My marriage failed. As a result, I also feel unsure about my so-called career. I feel old. I feel fat. I bought a flat under the HDB Singles Scheme (can’t they come up with a better name?) and I am unsure how long the renovations will take because of the pandemic restrictions. On bad days, I just blame the pandemic for everything. I cannot have dine-in at the cafe because of the pandemic, I have lost all of my tourist-customers, I feel responsible towards my staff to make sure no one loses their job because of COVID-19. In a nutshell, I blame. And I try to catch myself.

Like now.

I caught myself.

There is a silver lining. Goddammit I bought a flat. I am employed. I am an entrepreneur; Aileen and I built a brand that had been through quite a bit of shit but still loved by many. We did not lay off a single employee throughout this pandemic. We have the resources and knowledge to make adjustments to business operations to cope. My family is healthy. I am healthy. I have the means to book a staycation even when I cannot travel. I am able-bodied and can exercise any time I want. I have people who care for and love me for who I am. And I found Jesse. I have hope for the future. The future still excites me.

My life is a novel and I’d like to believe that we haven’t even reached the best chapters yet. The past is history, the future has yet to come. Today is a gift, and that’s why we call it the present. Make the best out of what we have.

It started with me wanting to write an encouraging letter to myself, but it quickly became another journal entry of me lamenting about my life. When is this going to end – this cyclical bullshit of me settling, realising that I am unhappy, seeking a way out, feeling defeated, and settling again.

I had read books. Music. Travel. Opened up, shut down. Gone away, escaped, fucked around, let people in, drove people out. How and where do people find peace, grace, faith, strength? I feel so broken and incompetent. Where do I go to learn how to untangle the knots? It is so noble to call these scars my badges of honour, but the truth is I am changed, I don’t feel like the same person I was, I am still getting used to this new person.

I wonder everyday if I would be okay. And it feels almost like a sin to put these thoughts online. I don’t want to burden people who care for me with my never-ending moping. My indecisiveness tires me and the people around me out. I feel weary. I feel old and heavy. I don’t feel pretty. I feel like the spark is gone. How does one deal with loneliness? The fear of abandonment? Was it my childhood?

I am not sure if I still deserve to be happy, or whether I will be fine in future. I am hopeful at times, and at other times the future just seems so, so bleak. I know it is all “in my head”; I am standing in my own doorway getting in the way of every darn thing.

It hasn’t stopped raining

The floor glistened. It is quiet and there is no one around. It started to drizzle shortly after I left home. I flustered for a while, worried that the rain might get heavier on me. Then I realised that I didn’t mind getting drenched afterall, it’s almost like some kind of baptism. Can’t remember the last time I allowed myself to embrace the rain.

There is always that point of time when one is worried about getting caught in a downpour before deciding “fuck it”.

I am not that alone. There are people who are still up not because they’re feeling a little off tonight – the people still at work at the sleepy gas station, the underpaid and overworked foreign workers filling cartons at the fruits and vegetables store, young men zipping around on their bikes delivering food to other hungry people (who are still awake) amongst other lone people walking/jogging at 2:30am.

Every huge tree I stroll by offered some kind of solace, similar to what those occasional nice thoughts I had about my not-so-bad life offered. The journey out always feels a little longer than the walk back home.

I have my insecurities sometimes. I measure myself up to people around me subconsciously, and unnecessarily. I am aware that transitions are difficult, these feelings I have are normal and they are my natural defences to prepare me for the changes that are to come.

Blessing in Disguise

“Cause if you’re happy in your head then solitude is blessed and alone is okay. If your heart is bleeding, make the best of it.”
I love this line from that Youtube video that I watched many years ago when I was on a frantic search of a solution to cope with that immense feeling of loneliness.

I’m proud to say that, as of right now, I feel like I’ve really come a long way from that old Peggy. I can vividly remember myself feeling a lump in my throat while having lunch alone in Hong Kong on my first solo trip. And that anxiety attack I suffered while on the media trip in Dublin. It was irrational and ridiculous how those situations would make me feel so vulnerable, insecure, and more importantly, alone.

I am in Phuket currently and it has been the third week now. This freedom is sweet. Honestly, I had big plans and visions about how this trip is going to turn out (it hasn’t been 100% accurate based on what I’ve desired) but one thing is for sure – I am still feeling fine and on this trip, I realised that it really isn’t so bad being on my own; it can be more torturing being with another person you don’t really want to be with. There is nothing wrong with feeling lonely once in a while, then the next step is to find something fulfilling to do, not mope around. I mean, even dating couples get bored sometimes no? And I’ve known myself for so long, it’s understandable that it can be harder to find something new and interesting to do. (I don’t know that makes sense, at least it made sense when that thought was still in my head).

I was at this bar alone, studying. The bar was empty when I got there, and by the time I left, it was 80% full. I got to admit, at some point of time, the thought crossed my mind – “Will people think I’m a loser because I’m out on my own on a Saturday night?”
And then I realised how silly and outrageous that fleeting thought was. Wtf do I wanna care about what others think? It’s not within my control. In fact, I should feel happy that I was out alone. Is every person around me, out with their friends or loved ones, truly happy about being right there at that moment? Not necessarily. I had the freedom to decide where I want my legs to take me. I should be grateful that I had the choice to be out, and I should be happy that *I* made that decision to take myself out.

Foiled plans and failures have taught me a lot; opened my eyes to things I’d have otherwise not known about myself. I’ve changed over the years, but I know the crux of me is still the same. I still struggle with being on my own, I’m just dealing with it better now. But I believe that I’ll just get better and better over time, hopefully it doesn’t take too long. Circumstances made me learn too. I don’t want to allow myself to feel less important or less outstanding because of another person’s opinion. I also want to learn (better) to speak my mind – tell people what I want exactly, tell people what I don’t want. Unfortunately, I think I’m still a bit of a people-pleaser.

A few days back, at Sofia’s class, I learnt that almost every emotion we have is on the scale of Craving VS Aversion. To truly get to your “self”, one has to get out of being on this scale. But that said, even the desire to be freed from the system is a kind of craving on its own. Mind-fuck right? I know. Hahaha.

I gotta go easy on myself man. It’s fucking cliche, but really, I am enough.

Moonlight Sea

When Perci first emailed me about travelling to Taiwan again to visit Taiwan East Coast, my heart skipped a beat. I recalled the first time visiting Yilan with them and how I thoroughly enjoyed the trip, the idea of visiting a new region of Taiwan with the locals really thrilled me.

I’ve never been much of a solo traveller, in fact, I’d even call myself quite an anxious solo traveller. It is something that I’m still trying to work on. The idea of being on my own in a foreign land is intimidating, probably because I’m a worry wart who constantly thinks about all the things that might go wrong while being on my own in an unfamiliar place. (What if I fall sick? What if the turbulence is bad? What if I get robbed? What if I lose my way?) I sometimes get anxiety from feeling obligated to interact with strangers too, I think that boils down to me being a little too self-conscious. *shrugs* Anyways!


I’ve never heard much about Taiwan East Coast before the trip. Up until Yilan happened, my impression of Taiwan is pretty much all gathered from Taipei. When people asked if I’ve been to Taiwan, I almost feel like I’m giving people the wrong impression when I reply, “Yes, 3 to 4 times” because there really is so much to the country that I’ve yet to experience and see.

Like a lot of fellow Singaporean travellers, I am unfamiliar with Taiwan East Coast and what it has to offer. This three-day tour with the locals really opened my eyes to Taiwan East Coast’s nature, culture and beauty.

Our first stop was to Lalaulan Tribe (拉劳兰部落)located at the eastern coastal area of Taimali Township. I had previously visited one of the aboriginal tribes in Taiwan before (pretty touristy one), but this one was really different. I vaguely remember that particular visit that happened when I was 9:  photo-taking with their traditional costumes, lunch in a hall carefully decorated with their crafts, and ending the tour at their big and air-conditioned gift shop. Nowhere as personal as this. From what I understood, this place is not exactly open to public and is not a tourist destination. I feel very honoured to be able to pay them a visit because they are our guides’ personal friends.

We were given a little introduction to the Paiwan Tribe (排湾族) and the village before going through a simple “cleansing ritual” for non-tribe members.

I do not know much about the indigenous people of Taiwan – I have a mental image of traditional-costume-donning people… I know a lot of them are great singers! I assume that they probably aren’t city-dwellers, that they live in the mountains, and do not wear “modern clothes”. They hunt and farm and do crafts. They have their own languages/dialects. Do they even use technology?

I was SO ignorant.
Many indigenous people of Taiwan pretty much lead lives like you and I. They can have what you and I have, AND they also have a rich culture and history on top of it!

One of the highlights of my entire trip was to be able to meet Mr Sakinu (撒可努).
(Mr Sakinu was formerly a policeman by profession in Taipei)

A little excerpt I got from the internet:
Living on Taiwan more than 8,000 years before the first arrival of the Han Chinese in the 17th century, the Taiwanese aborigines (原住民) are Austronesian people, with linguistic and genetic ties to the people of the Philippines and other Polynesian groups. They are estimated to constitute about 2% of the population of Taiwan.

As a distinct ethnic group from Han Chinese, aborigines face many economic and social barriers, stemming from substandard education quality by comparison and language and cultural barrier. The majority of aboriginal people live in mountainous regions, primarily along the east coast nearby Hualien and Taiwan East Coast. Some communities located high up in the mountains may rarely visit the cities, and live by hunting and subsistence farming growing high mountain agriculture and produce such as vegetables and high mountain tea, some of which is sold to the cities to generate revenue for the tribe.

There are currently 16 different aboriginal tribes recognised by the Taiwan government.

Mr Sakinu‘s story truly touched my heart; his love for his tribe, country and its people is evident in the way he leads his life and how he is constantly pushing frontiers to promote and preserve the Paiwan tribe’s culture and way of life. In fact, the love that he has goes beyond that for Paiwan and Taiwan, it’s obvious that Mr Sakinu is a lover of mankind and the entire world. I was told by the guides that Mr Sakinu’s father is also known as “The Wind Hunter” – he moves around the jungle like the wind, leaving his trace, and everything else unchanged.

People would usually slash the vegetation in the jungle to make a path when they go out to hunt, but not these people. “There is on need to do that,” they said. Small things like that… I was touched and they had totally commanded my respect! I was enthralled by Mr Sakinu and his stories. One hour went by just like that.

He said Taiwan, and in fact the whole of mankind, is like a rainbow. We are different beautiful colours that will only be spectacular if we can coexist in harmony. ❤ MAI HEART.

Here is a movie called The Sage Hunter (2005) which is about the life of Mr Sakinu, who is also author of a book with the same name (山藸.飛鼠.撒可努 in Chinese). Do check it out if you are interested to find out more.


What a treat for my soul.

Home for the first night – Traveler Inn, 旅人驛站.

Day 2 was exciting – Standup Paddling and Moonlight Sea Concert!

I’ve only done standup paddling once before Taiwan East Coast. I’m not quite a water baby (can’t swim and pretty damn hydrophobic) and I usually have to coax myself a fair bit before I involve myself in any water activities. For some strange reasons, I felt comfortable doing SUP here, prolly because I trust that the rest of the team would take good care of me and that my balance is quite good so I won’t fall. Haha! (And I really didn’t fall, thank God)

The view was awesome! Well worth the sweat and all that paranoia! :p

Meet Ah Fei, the coolest dog ever! (In the far right end of the photo, there is also me looking like a mess heh!)


For those of you who are also looking for a little bit of such activities in Taiwan East Coast area, we were at 馬武窟溪 (Ma Wu Ku).
Visit 都歷海洋教室 T.O.S Torik Ocean Surf n Rent’s Facebook Page to get started!
Tel: +886-911-903-052

I got the opportunity to get my hands dirty cleaned at a soap-making workshop with 足渡蘭手工皂. They have got some really interesting flavours/scents for their soaps here; I remember tobacco, rice wine and betel nuts amongst many others. These three items hold a special significance to the aboriginal people. During our first visit to the Paiwan tribe, the guide told us that it is important for visiting guests to prepare three items as gifts/offerings during the welcoming rituals. Those are the three items.

I learnt that all the ingredients used in the soap making process were organically and ethically obtained. I tried the soap and it was REALLY good (it was as if I had body lotion on after washing/leaving lather on etc. Fo real.), I came home with a whole bag of soaps. :p

The very jovial and humorous owner cum soap-making maestro hehe.


AND of course!!!

The main reason I was in Taiwan East Coast was actually for the Taiwan East Coast Land Arts Festival 东海岸大地艺术节

Organised by the Ministry of National Landscape Management Office East Coast, the festival brings together the natural environment, tribal life, habitat residence of East Taiwan and showcases it in a festival that spans a period of more than three month. This is the 5th year of the festival and I was captivated from the first moment I watched the promotional video – culture, music, arts and a lot, a lot of heart. Just like how they have described Taiwan’s east coast in their website, the spirit of the festival really successfully encapsulates the essence of Taiwan East Coast, its people and beauty – quiet but wild, mysterious and sometimes loud, fascinating with a lot of soul.

There is an entire list of artworks commissioned by the festival throughout the years littered all over Taiwan east coast. I was honoured to be able to visit a few of them on this trip, along with my new friends! Can I just say for the record how I utterly LOVE ❤ Taiwanese people?

The lady in red is Muni. And she is the heart of every single party because she is SO MUCH fun, constantly brimming with positivity and energy. I just love her so much! On the last day of the trip when we had to travel back to Taipei (she had to leave us earlier because she was from Taiwan East Coast), she sang us a song in the bus, with her eyes closed. She said it is a song about parting, and her mother taught her that song. I don’t know of any other way to describe how I felt but it brought a tear to my eyes. That energy I felt was impalpable. It was really beautiful.


Ok back to the festival. The main festival grounds was kinda hippie heh! There was a lot of food stores and lots of crafts store to shop at! And since the festival was all about sustainability too (I ate my pasta dinner out of a pita bread that night!), I bought a beautiful handmade ceramic cup and used it for coffee right away.


Something else that caught my attention at this year’s festival was the exhibition by Rahic Talif who is also from one of Taiwan’s aboriginal tribes Amei. It started with him picking up trash on the beaches when he discovered the obscene amount of slippers that were being discarded along the coasts. (That’s how this particular exhibition I saw was born) The sheer amount of rubbish he gathered was appalling. Here is a snippet about Rahic Talif. You should really watch it!




Moonlight Sea Festival got its name because of the beautiful location that it is held year after year.
Call me a hopeless romantic, but when one of the guides called the location we were at 天涯海角 (loosely translates to… edge of the world?). We were at the eastern-most edge of Taiwan and what lies ahead was an endless Pacific Ocean. It will be this same ocean all the way until it reaches the polynesian islands. Omg 天涯海角。好浪漫哦! :p I swooned (not openly, because people will judge). Hahaha!

It was a full moon night when I was there (Moonlight Sea Concerts only happen during full moon nights!) and everyone was stoked when the clouds parted. That bright, round moon casting its light onto the boundless Pacific Ocean – it looked so shimmery and glittery. I remember standing there with a beer in my right hand, with live indigenous tribal music in the background, feeling really moved and glad that I was there at that very moment, doing absolutely nothing except to admire the moon. It was truly cathartic.


It was a beautiful night made even better with kind people, wondrous indigenous music and delightful conversations.

If you are planning to include Taiwan East Coast in your next trip to Taiwan, do plan it around the next Moonlight Sea Festival!
Here are the festival dates for 2020:

We squeezed in a bit of time to visit the Ca’wi tribe 静浦部落 in Hualien on Day Three! They’re Amei people, the biggest indigenous group in Taiwan. I had a nice tan on my arms and some good fun there rafting and picking up a trick or two on how to cast a fishing net from our athletic and friendly guides. We also had a shot at archery (no pun intended) which I really sucked at. :p

They’ve got some real sick views there!

These activities are also available for booking if you’re in the area. Do note that prior reservation is required. Swing by their Facebook Page for more deets! THE HIGHLIGHT OF THIS PLACE tho, has got to be 陶甕百合春天. Over here, you’ll get to savour the taste of the Amei Tribe. A unique thing about this restaurant is how they do not have a menu; you’ll have whatever the team manages to gather from the sea and from the mountains that very day. How cool is that! I like how they served our group 8 fishes in total and all the fishes are different. Haha!

The food was divine! It works out to be about 80 SGD/pax.

The trip was perfect; I cannot ask for anyone better to see Taiwan East Coast with. I’ve made friends and there was laughter and heartfelt conversations even when we had only known each other for a couple of days. Special thanks to Perci and Ken who took great care of me and always making sure I’m alright, and to the wonderful tour guides Da Yi 大益 and Rita who truly, truly went far beyond a tour guide’s duties and became more like a friend to us. You know how you can feel someone because there is always an exchange of energy when you’re interacting with somebody? I’ve got nothing but good vibes from them. 🙂

With Dayi, Rita and the adorable Dong Suan! ❤

Thank you Taiwan East Coast and all the wonderful I met on this trip, it is a memory that I will always look back upon fondly. 🙂